Value menu

Scott McNamara knows how to sear a scallop.

And we know this already. His scallop dish at Brasserie Capitale won raves from multiple critics in town, earning a spot on the Sacramento Bee’s list of best dishes of 2015.

Prior to Brasserie Capitale, McNamara was the executive chef at Bistro Michel, where he also applied heat to scallops in just the right way. Now, he’s back at the same location, which has been slightly redesigned and reconceptualized under new ownership as TableVine.

Here, too, he serves scallops. Marvelous scallops. They wear a dense, golden-brown sear that gives way to smooth, ivory silkiness. Paired with swirls of creamy cauliflower puree, nutty brown butter, fried capers, plump raisins and crispy nuts, the dish triumphs in textural contrasts and bold flavors. In taste and presentation, it’s comparable to the excellent Brasserie Capitale version. Then factor in how TableVine serves four scallops for $20 instead of three scallops for $22. Suddenly, TableVine slays.

Now, TableVine is not a French restaurant, and it’s nowhere near as fun, beautiful or bustling as Brasserie Capitale. Comparisons shall stop with the scallops.

TableVine pitches itself as a cozy restaurant with a wine country vibe. Apart from the extensive wine list, it doesn’t fully succeed in creating that relaxed yet elegant atmosphere. As for the menu, it’s not a yawn, but it’s not exactly exciting either. Regardless, McNamara’s cooking is always good and TableVine’s prices are very reasonable. It’s ideal for people who like dining out and feeling special, but maybe don’t want to spend $25 or $30 on an entree, as is becoming more and more common with Sacramento’s new fleet of high-end restaurants.

TableVine’s all-day menu—meaning the prices unfortunately don’t go down at lunch—changes regularly, but most of the well-portioned entrees fit in the $15-$20 range. A big bowl of manila clams ($15) with toast makes for a great shared appetizer or main dish. The bright orange, white-wine-based broth is packed with flavor from house-made chorizo, stewed tomatoes and shaved garlic. You’ll want more bread to sop it up, and TableVine will oblige.

I devoured the duck confit ($18), served in the vein of cassoulet. The duck leg is slowly roasted in its own fat, resulting in meltingly tender meat that falls off the bone—and into a pool of creamy butter beans, crispy bacon bits and buttered breadcrumbs. It’s hefty, and not oily. My only qualm: the flabby duck skin.

For a warming starter, try the Portuguese kale soup ($7), with white beans, linguica, potato and spices that pack a subtle punch. Pasta is also done well, such as the bucatini ($14) with delicate baby squid in a garlicky white wine sauce.

You’ll likely be tempted to skip dessert, as the menu reads like an afterthought. Still, while simple, the dense and tangy cheesecake ($7) is among the better I’ve tried in Sacramento.

When it comes to helping pair your meal with wine, servers are as helpful and unpretentious as you could ever want. And the wine list fits all budgets, whether it’s a $6 glass or a $1,000 bottle. But other times, service felt overbearing. One guy acted so friendly that he called me “buddy” and signaled with multiple thumbs up.

Still, I didn’t mind that as much as the music selection. On one lunch visit, the schizophrenic soundtrack switched from classical guitar to Tom Petty to religious orchestral music. During a subsequent dinner, I cringed at the nonstop Christian rock that almost had me crying out “Jesus!”

But these are easy fixes. Much easier than, say, nailing a perfect scallop.