Trousers in flight

There’s a big mural on the left wall of Rick’s Hacienda depicting several men engaged in the voladares rite practiced by Totonac Indians. These men are known as Voladers de Papantla, which, roughly translated, means “men with the flying pants.” The men climb to the top of a tall pole and dive into space; a rope attached to their ankles and wound around the pole slowly lowers each man to the ground as some goofy looking dude playing a flute squats on the top. That’s a lot to go through for a fish taco, but you’ll find the ones served at Rick’s Hacienda—fresh-made tortillas stuffed with plump chunks of tender white fish meat—are worth at least a drive across town. Of course, they’re not on the menu; you’ve got to order them up special. Or try the cheese and onion enchiladas, which are on the menu. They’re creamy and perfect. Not to mention the fresh homemade salsa that’s definitely not for wimps.