That Eastern swagger

“Finding good Japanese food—like, real Japanese food—is impossible in Sacramento. I gave up years ago.” So says a friend of mine who travels to Japan frequently and spent a few years living there. I decided that she would be the perfect person to take with me to Izakaya Daikoku, the newest Japanese eatery to spring up locally.

Izakayas are to Japan what pubs are to England: a place to grab a cheap drink and some easy grub. The purveyors behind I.D. hope to bring this Eastern swagger to Sacramento.

Upon sitting down and getting our menus we found ourselves drowning in options from okonomiyaki to sunomono to sushi. For those not familiar with Japanese food, be prepared to ask a lot of questions as you explore Izakaya cuisine.

“Overall,” explained my companion, “understand that Japanese food is simply prepared, possesses clean and uncomplicated flavors and should always be paired with beer and sake.”

Sunomono (Japanese pickled cucumbers) topped with fresh octopus proved to be a lovely starter. This is a dish that messes with your head and for a moment you might think you’re at a Shirahama beach in summer. The crispy vegetables and the chew of the seafood make for a fascinating contrast.

A selection of yakitori (skewered and grilled foods) was rather hit and miss. The ebi (shrimp) was delivered overcooked and under-seasoned. Yet, the grilled chicken livers tasted pleasantly sauced and the chicken hearts hid a fervently gamey flavor.

Agedashi tofu was the true hit of the night: deep-fried cubes of delicately soft tofu served with a soy dashi broth. Squishy pillows of flavor.

Our culinary expert then insisted the rest of us try the hamachi collar served with lemon and ponzu. It’s a boastful dish that exemplifies simplicity, though heavy grilling mars the otherwise intimate experience.

The soba noodles seemed staid if nothing else. It’s the crisp and hauntingly savory broth that lifts you up and floats you away.

We sampled two soba bowl specimens: one with a snotty mess of Japanese yam that isn’t as unappealing as it sounds, but not exactly seductive in flavor or texture either. The other arrived with a side of vegetable and shrimp tempura that was tender in crunchy armor.

The okonomiyaki is I.D.’s big pull— a traditional Japanese pizza made of cabbage and savory pancake batter. Each is buried under mayo, katsu sauce and bonito flakes resulting in a rich, greasy mess that leaves you feeling heavy but guarantees you’ll sober up quickly.

Of course, that may well be the point, as the sake menu is staggering. Prepare to explore and get your drink on.

A sushi menu reminiscent of Kru and Mikuni is also available. None of it is bad, but if you want sushi then go to a sushi joint.

Lighting and sound are issues. At one visit we all broke out the flashlights on our cell phones in order to read the dark menus encased in frosted plastic covers. Noise levels are epic in the cavernous space, so expect to shout over the din.

Still, we would call the night a success. And our Japanese cuisine expert?

“It reminds me of Japan.”