Thanksgiving dos and don’ts

Whether you’re a Thanksgiving traditionalist or a wild experimenter, there’s always something Thanksgiving is not complete without—say, grandma’s lemon-meringue pie or mom’s stuffing—and something else you abhor (green-bean casserole, or Jell-O salad). I asked Kim Anderson of Ambrosia Café & Catering what she must and must not have on the table every November: “Thanksgiving is not complete without gravy. I’ve gotta, gotta, gotta have that. I use the neck and the giblets and make some stock. I use flour, and I don’t usually put in any wine. It’s definitely a very traditional gravy.

“I would never put on my Thanksgiving table any pre-made products ever. It’s all made from scratch, from the breads to the pies, and preferably with local products from the farmers’ market. I’m fanatical about that.

“I’m not usually the host, but I’m always the cook. I went to cooking school in San Francisco several years ago and I’m a certified Cordon Bleu chef, so I do all the cooking. Otherwise, I wouldn’t be happy.”