Thai ice tea, please

A sugary, caffeinated dairy-free beverage accompanying your dinner is within the realm of possibility at Thai restaurants. Normally, Thai ice tea is made with condensed milk and half-and-half or cream, but some eateries will replace the fatty cow juice with coconut milk. Just ask. Bangkok Garden Thai Cuisine in Natomas (3230 Arena Boulevard), for example, happily obliged, and the result was dizzyingly sweet and perfectly tannic. It's easy to imagine how the saccharine punch of the drink would be complemented by a kick of citrus tartness in Bangkok's Thai lemon ice tea, which, rest assured, will be taste-tested on the next visit.