Tentacle love

A favorite childhood scene of mine was helping dad to boil the Christmas octopus as he sang, “Oh octopi, oh octopi, how lovely are your tentacles.” You can imagine my attraction, then, to one of Localis’ star dishes, the fire-roasted octopus ($17). One long tentacle laid across a swath of Nantes carrot puree, lightly topped with pearls of piquillo pepper among slices of navel orange and carrot peelings to the side. While $17 may seem steep for a lonesome limb, I guarantee you’ve never had octopus of such a buttery, tender texture. Lovely tentacle, indeed. 2031 S Street, www.localissacramento.com.