Tasty traditions, renewed

The newest outpost of Alexis Ventures, parent to Rail Bridge Cellars, is called Strings Urban Kitchen (SUK). It has an unfortunate acronym for such a promising place. Located in the Capitol Towers complex, Strings (we’re just going to avoid its acronym) opened in early March. It’s a more upscale version of the Gold River-based Strings Italian Cafe chain, putting it squarely in the Il Fornaio camp of mid-level Italian, but with a lower price point.

Strings is loosely based on a Rat Pack-era style, with a custom painting of that iconic group dominating one wall, and cocktails named after Frank and Sammy, et al. Even Marilyn Monroe is included, with the eponymous offering of prosecco with a side of house-made potato chips. On our visit, the bubbly was lovely, but the chips were sadly unavailable. A 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. happy hour during the week will get you half-price cocktails and select drinks.

For lunch, diners order at the counter. There’s some seating inside at rough-hewn wooden tables and plenty more outside overlooking the pool. Small pots of fresh herbs grace each table.

At my table, we tried the minestrone, which is a simple version with lots of sliced carrots, cabbage and beans. Shards of broken pasta—a traditional use for those bits—round it out. The flavor is nicely clean, rather than muddy, as some minestrones tend to be.

The cold pasta salad, with red onion, olives, pepperoncini and an unusual cucumber-garlic dressing is a nice change. The peppers give it a bit of spice, and the dressing is creamy without being too rich. It’s also included as a side with the meatball sandwich, which is equally well-executed. The roll is perfectly chosen—not too soft and not too crunchy—and flavored with garlic and herbs before enclosing sliced meatballs, marinara and cheese. It’s a good version for the lunch crowd, because it’s flavorful but not too sloppy.

At dinner, Strings offers table service. We shared the Bruschetta Rustico, with chunky toasts layered with seasoned cheese, grape tomatoes, basil and balsamic vinegar. With less garlic than many versions, it’s a delicious and date-friendly choice.

The house salad, often an afterthought on menus, has some interesting additions with sunflower seeds and raisins and a judicious amount of creamy Italian dressing.

Pizzas are offered at 7 or 16 inches, with lots of optional additions. A small Pomodoro Mozzarella, with sliced tomatoes and marinara, was a serviceable version. The crust is medium-thick and chewy, the toppings plentiful. A signature frutti di mare pie with shrimp, scallops, mussels and seafood sauce is a more unique take on the category.

Some dishes from the original Strings have made the jump to the new place, among them the Pasta Sienna. It’s a somewhat daring combo of Alfredo and curry sauces over penne, chicken and shrimp. A dusting of chili pepper perks it up.

There are quite a few vegetarian choices, including Vegetale de las Casa. Eggplant, peppers, zucchini and other veg are sautéed in oil and tossed with Parmesan and Gorgonzola. It’s a bit oily on its own, but would be great over pasta or rice.

Don’t miss the great deal on $2 sides with entrees, such as soup, salad or thick-cut garlic fries.

For dessert, we were happy to see tiramisu, with sprightly ladyfinger sponge cake and an airy mascarpone topped with cocoa and cinnamon. The house-made Amaretti Morbidi cookies feature a soft, warm inside and a slightly crunchy outer layer. They’re baked to order and worth a try. Another interesting item is the caffè sospeso (“pending coffee”), in which you pay for a cup for the next guest.

It’s an old tradition that deserves renewed attention. The food at Strings is similar: traditional dishes with new attention to detail and flavor. It’s a nice addition to the downtown grid.