The asparagus grown in the Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta is widely considered to be some of the best in the world. And the asparagus pizza on Paragary’s spring menu is an excellent way to experience it. I expected it shaved, but it sits on the pie in thumb-sized chunks. For that reason I expected some bitterness, but it is as sweet as any green thing you’ve ever tasted. Mild fontina (and not a whole lot of it), roasted shallots and miatake mushrooms set up each bite of asparagus perfectly. The Delta asparagus season generally runs through the end of May, so don’t delay.
Generous piles of sauteed squash, onions mushrooms, bell peppers and spinach are stuffed into a tortilla and smothered in a breathtakingly spicy green sauce.