Pearls of small price

Because of its rough texture and small size, traditional Moroccan couscous often is mistaken for a grain—a mistake nobody is likely to make with so-called Israeli couscous, which is spherical and identifiably pasta-like. It’s also got a lot more chew and heft than its Western Mediterranean cousin, making it less good for soaking up tagine sauces, but a lot better as a base for warm or cool salads or as a side dish, tossed with roasted vegetables, olive oil and Meyer lemon juice. It used to be hard to find, but I’ve spotted it lately at Whole Foods, Taylor’s Market and elsewhere, so I’ve been using it alongside another Eastern Mediterranean favorite: halloumi, a Cypriot cheese that can be grilled or pan-fried until soft and toasty. Stir in peas and greens, dust with mint and top with the halloumi and a squeeze of lemon, and these starchy little pearls make a delicious and fast dinner.