Parms of the patriarchs

ICYMI: Michael Sampino took over Joe Marty’s, and the new arrangement has a solid emphasis on the dinner service that the main Sampino’s establishment lacked for some time. As is my ethnically Italian wont, I went in to compare the eggplant parm ($18) against my dad’s. This parm comes sizzling on a hot skillet, heaped with eggplant still firm to the bite and dense with savory flavor. For the sake of pleasant relations back home, I will abstain from printing whether it is, in fact, better than my dad’s. 1500 Broadway, www.gojoemartys.com.