Pairing off

Pairing cheese with various condiments and beverages was a big topic at the recent American Cheese Society Conference held in Sacramento. Kirstin Jackson, author of It's Not You, It's Brie and a former Sacramento cook, says you can think about pairings like you would think about cooking. Let's say you have a cheese with an earthy, mushroomy taste. How do you best enhance mushrooms? Butter, of course. Then pair the cheese with a creamy, buttery wine.

Ultimately, it's all about balance. You don't want the cheese nor the accompaniment to overwhelm the other. Here are a few basic suggestions to get you going.

1. Light, citrusy goat cheeses enjoy unoaked wines—like chardonnay or sauvignon blanc—with similar citrus notes. A light pilsner or wheat beer would work, too.

2. Meaty, mold-ripened cheeses such as Brie or Camembert prefer a more buttery, oaked white wine. Whatever you do, know that Brie and tannic red wines don't get along.

3. Salty, nutty cheeses like caramel and chocolate flavors. Pair your next aged Gouda with a porter or brown ale.

4. Blue cheeses are salty, piquant and intense. A porter would work well, but a sweet wine might work even better. Try sauternes or riesling.

5. Pair by region—yes, the classic wine term terroir can also refer to how soil and weather affects cheese and beer. There's a reason why tart, sharp manchego tastes so lovely with a glass of Rioja.

Most importantly, experiment! Every palate is different, and as Jackson says, “There's hardly any research in cheese pairings—people are just saying things.”