Once more take flight

Blackbird Kitchen & Bar (the first version) closed with all the immediacy of a bird meeting its gruesome end against a window. It recently reopened, however, with chef-owner Carina Lampkin once again at the helm, along with the support of co-owners Demetri Gregorakis, Ron McGlumphy and Tony Priley.

Located in its original space with a similar aesthetic, though with more focus on beer and bar food to better complement the seafood-inspired dinner menu, Blackbird Kitchen & Beer Gallery resonates with its previous incarnation.

The beer and cider menu is long enough to put John Milton to shame, and while some may bemoan a lack of local brews, Blackbird carries many that can’t be found anywhere else. In addition, beers can be ordered in 8-, 12- or 16-ounce servings, making a visit of extensive tasting affordable for anyone. (A glass of Dawn of the Red ale for $2.75? Done.)

A “Bar + Lunch” menu and a dinner menu are available, the former comprising more sharing-conducive plates, and the latter consisting of proper dishes with meat and veg.

A burger ordered medium-rare arrived well-done, but for once, I didn’t care. House pickles, a seven-day house-cured bacon, cheddar, a vegan bun from Estelle’s Patisserie and sweet ’n’ chivey “awesome sauce” all make it one of my favorite burgers in the city. No question.

Chowder fries are nifty in theory—fries covered in bay shrimp, bacon and parsley, then doused with chowder—Blackbird’s play on poutine. A lack of acid and serious sogginess issues mar it from being a landmark dish, however. Steamboat oysters are served with caramelized leeks, Parmesan and plenty of bacon, and demand attention.

Better yet? Fish tacos featuring fried pollock served with pickled cabbage and chipotle crema. These and a beer will remedy any bad day you’re having.

A cooked Hawaiian butterfish is served with a hard lump of daikon and buttery bok choy. While the butterfish was clean and meaty with a crispy skin, it was outdone by the same butterfish served raw with finger lime and neon pools of Cara Cara oranges. This particular dish arrived looking like a cover photo for Donna Hay and boasts a flavor that can stand up to any sushi in town.

Wagyu beef tartare is a good measure of what’s going on in the kitchen, and Blackbird’s is certainly promising: Served with quail egg, paprika and artichoke confit, one cannot help but blush at the taste.

A nettle fettuccine served with green-garlic sauce held promise of spring bounty, but arrived tired and so gummy it’s easy to imagine it being made by Haribo. Left mostly untouched by the table, so was the fate of the only vegan option on the menu: wild mushrooms and toasted oats. While the grains were executed perfectly and the mushrooms expertly cooked, a lack of acidic or bitter components left the dish without a sense of drama or complexity. In this case, it’s a real shame, because Lampkin proves through most of the menu that she has a keen awareness of proper balance.

Everyone from the hostess to the bartender is friendly. Servers are genial and knowledgeable about the menu, but could use a bit more brushing up with the beer.

The drama surrounding Blackbird’s 2013 closure certainly left a bad taste in many mouths, yet like a phoenix, with as much radiance and fanfare, it’s now risen from the ashes and brought itself back to life. Some tinkering certainly needs to happen—a bit more thought and balance in the food, to be sure. However, the restaurant effuses a vibe that it’s striving to overcome obstacles, both past and present, which makes this eater excited to return again and again.