No salsa required

For some reason, it's way easier to find sopes than huaraches in this town. The main difference is shape and size—sopes are tiny, tidy circles and huaraches are larger, long oblong shapes. Though not as absurdly giant as Ciudad Nezahualcóyotl's well-known tortas, the taqueria's huaraches ($6.75) are definitely worthy of a full meal. It starts with a thick, pleasantly chewy base of fried masa, then a smear of refried beans, meat of choice, strips of cactus, crunchy romaine and queso fresco. It's all about the layered textures here, but for a nice flavor contrast against the sweet cactus, go for the smoky, chipotle-stewed chicken tinga. Salsa bar? Sure, but not needed. 6035 Franklin Boulevard, (916) 393-7353.