Nice Italian noodles

Inside Adamo’s, a server calls out to take a seat anywhere. In a blue T-shirt, jean shorts and tennis shoes, she zips around the casual Italian spot that shares a block with a tattoo parlor and a laundromat. After ordering the bolognese pasta ($16), I wonder if it’s Elliott Smith I hear behind the chatter. Sure is. The bolognese arrives: a beautiful mound of thick pappardelle covered with enough meaty sauce to spoon onto the garlic bread. Featuring Alameda’s Niman Ranch beef, this filling dish is pure comfort food. Plus they won’t judge if you eat it with white wine. 2107 P Street; (916) 440-9611; adamoskitchen.com.