New pizza in town

Pizza comes in many styles. Some like the refined, European crisp and thin-crusted styles, some deep-dish and still others something in between: the piled-on, all-American middle ground, with an explosion of toppings, tons of cheese and thicker dough. Extreme pizza, one might call it—and indeed a small Bay Area chain eponymously calls it just that. Following an apparent current trend expanding to Sacramento, Extreme Pizza has opened three branches not downtown, but in the suburbs: Roseville (943 Pleasant Grove Boulevard), Elk Grove (9308 Elk Grove Boulevard) and Natomas (3890 Truxel Road). They specialize in whimsically named big, bold combos. I stopped by the Elk Grove location recently for a fairly restrained pie that was half Railroad Grade (Italian sausage, pepperoni, mushrooms, red onion, mozzarella and cheddar) and half Pandora’s Box (baby spinach, artichoke hearts, sun-dried tomatoes, feta, garlic, basil, oregano and mozzarella), but you can also find less traditional combos like the Poultry Geist and the Mr. Pestato Head (pesto and potatoes, natch). They’re a good way to feed a crowd.