Moo-la-la

I’m a big fan of ordering the “dac biet” (the house special) at any Vietnamese restaurant, and at Saigon (5304 Stockton Boulevard), it’s item No. 1: the Saigon Special. They’re so proud of this dish there’s even a large picture of it on the wall. In addition to the overall yumminess of Saigon’s pho (it’s my favorite), you get an assortment of rare steak, brisket, tendon, tripe, meatball and well-done flank. This pho is so intensely bovine that it’s like a barnyard in a bowl; it’s impossible to get a spoonful of soup without a bit of cow floating in it, and, as you work your way through the noodles, the already rich broth becomes clouded with meat. When I’m feeling anemic, I go for the Saigon Special.