Masters of masala

Like most food that makes its way to America, chai has been co-opted by malpractitioners who make it overwhelmingly sweet. Not so at Tiferet Coffee House. It serves a delicious Devi chai latte ($4.75) that sits the sugar in the passenger seat and lets the spice take the wheel and park on the back of your tongue with a little heat. Topped with foamed milk that lasts until the last drop, it’s a worthwhile winter treat, especially since it supports the chatty Berhane family, who own and run the place with a warmth that can be lacking at the industrial-chic coffee houses. 3020 H Street, (916) 321-9321.