Leather in your cocktail?

This new Midtown restaurant seems ripe for some Portlandia-esque mockery. A Gold Rush era-themed joint with a leather-infused bourbon cocktail? Throw in a handlebar mustache and the whole thing feels pretentious. In the glass, however, Saddle Rock’s Dirty Means ($9) is silky, with a bite; it gets its oomph from Thai chili and peanut oil. A more sophisticated palate could likely pick up on whatever nuances a hunk of aged leather brings; for the rest of us it just makes for a zingy, slow sipper. 1801 L Street, Suite 60; www.facebook.com/SaddleRockBar.