Just ducky

Big-time foie gras fans already knew about the “toast” option at Mulvaney's B&L—a loophole in the statewide ban allowed chefs to give out the wondrous fatty liver for free, but not sell it. Two weeks ago, the ban was lifted. And excited chefs, like Patrick Mulvaney, placed foie gras back on their menus immediately. A recent $19 plate featured tart huckleberry compote, candied quince and soft buckwheat blinis, which all balanced beautifully against the velvety, luxurious seared foie. And if you've got PETA and force-feeding tubes in your head, Mulvaney's servers are quick to tell you about what wonderful, spoiled lives those ducks led. Just enjoy it, OK? Mulvaney's B&L, 1215 19th Street, www.mulvaneysbl.com.