Just beet it

North Highlands’ Koval’s Trade Market will shock anyone who, like me, cut their ethnic market teeth at Asian grocers. Where’s the fish scent? This Russian market is shockingly clean, fresh-smelling and well-stocked; a Russian version of Oto’s Marketplace (http://otosmarketplace.com), if you will. There’s an in-store bakery (which makes breads and cakes), a butcher, a deli section with prepared hot foods and a sausage selection that would make a polka band blush. Plus, there’s a very nice produce department with the biggest pile of beets I’ve seen this side of Dwight Schrute’s farm. Elkhorn Shopping Center, 4319B Elkhorn Boulevard; (916) 344-5555; http://kovalstrademarket.com.