Just beastly
by Janelle Bitker
Whole hog: At a certain point in his culinary career, Eric Veldman Miller grew tired of dinner service—he just wanted to butcher and make sausages.
Miller was once the chef de cuisine at Mulvaney’s B&L. He’ll open his first butcher shop V. Miller Meats (4801 Folsom Boulevard) with Matt Azevedo, who was once the chef de cuisine at Restaurant Thir13en, at the end of October.
V. Miller Meats aims to be Sacramento’s first exclusively whole-animal butchery, focusing on super-local meats—Miller’s furthest source is about 100 miles away, his closest borders Natomas—and pasture-raised, grass-fed beef. Plus, pork, lamb, chicken and, if there’s enough demand, goat. Expect unusual cuts, offal and bones—for soup or your dogs.
“We’re excited to walk people through some of the stuff, whether you’ve never heard of something or you’re asking for something you can’t get anywhere else,” Miller said.
Sausage and charcuterie will start out pretty basic—sweet Italian, spicy Italian, pepperoni, coppa, lardo—but Miller anticipates experimenting in the future. And because Miller and Azevedo are chefs, they’ll also prepare some ready-to-eat meals weekly utilizing the shop’s smoker and rotisserie. Customers won’t see that action when they walk in, but they will be able to watch butchering and sausage pressing.
Mad dough: Sacramento’s current doughnut landscape doesn’t contain enough gore and kitsch for ya? Behold: Donut Madness is now open at 2648 Watt Avenue.
From one of the founders of the insanely popular Psycho Donuts in San Jose, Donut Madness draws inspiration from horror movies. Doughnuts start at $1.75 and take on silly concepts. Examples: Children of the Cornflake (peanut butter, Karo Syrup and cornflake cereal), S’mores Stalker (marshmallow cream, graham cracker and chocolate) and Apricot Plot (apricot-laced fritter).
Foie bar: Pair oysters with basketball at the new Triple Double Sports Bar and Grill located in the former Zokku nightclub space (419 J Street) across from the upcoming Kings arena. Brightly colored murals of athletes and an abundance of flat-screen televisions contrast the sports bar’s restaurant elements, like cloth napkins and lemongrass-scented mussels.
The chef and ownership team have roots in New Orleans, and southern influences dot the menu: pork cheeks arrive over grits; fried brussel sprouts over pimento cheese; and caprese salad with fried green tomatoes.
One last note: deep-fried Oreos stuffed with foie gras.