Just a touch

The delicate fruits and lettuces just appearing now in markets call for a gentler hand with seasoning. Don’t drown out their flavors with a hammering of strong alliums; look for spring onions and garlic to complement them instead. Now is the time to find green garlic, too, which can be used raw or barely cooked with freshly shucked peas and the first tender asparagus. Ramps, which are wild leeks, may be a bit stronger, but they’re wonderful grilled alongside meats and strewn across thin-crust pizzas with ham and asiago cheese.