In with the new

I was both upset and intrigued when I learned about David English’s new restaurant, The Press (1809 Capitol Avenue). I was upset because the previous restaurant to occupy the space, Dragonfly, a hip sushi place that shared the same competitive corner and that wasn’t much different from any other hip sushi place, was one of my favorite dives for late-night maki with friends. Throwing back sake and half-price rolls was a wonderful way to unwind.

Only recently did I finally deign to give this usurper a chance. I went in with a slightly negative attitude but was pleasantly surprised. Dragonfly’s interior had been dark, with a color scheme you would associate to the bedroom of a vampire-obsessed tween. The Press, instead, is full of warmth and light.

The menu matches the space: ethereal and pleasant with its stylish but homey dishes. Potato croquettes and fried meatballs (which I would kill to get the recipe for) are a delightful reminder that new things can be good, possibly better, than what you might be missing when it comes to the restaurant world.