In pursuit of pungency

On the list of unfortunate food names, horseradish ranks high. It hardly sounds appealing, and you wonder how people decided to eat it at all. The knobby brownish root looks woody. Buy the very perishable roots only if you’re ready to use them soon. When whole, it smells unlike the pungent flavor we all recognize. Cut or grate the root, though, and it releases enzymes to create that iconic taste. Horseradish keeps best when mixed with vinegar; use it to zing up sauces, sushi and cocktails. Bottoms up, Bloody Marys!