Gumbo’s back, tell a friend

Longtime Sacramentans may remember Celestin’s, which filled bellies with warm gumbo from 1983 until 2011 in Midtown. They’re back for their third opening, this time in a smaller space with counter service. Its namesake gumbo ($21) is the meatiest: hunks of chicken, rock cod, scallops, shrimp and perfectly smokey sausage and red bell peppers are mixed with a roux, which was too mild for the medium spice order but still damn good. With seven gumbos to try (including a veggie option), and an extended menu, it looks like a promising comeback. 3610 McKinley Boulevard, (916) 258-4060.