Grown-up sweets

Estelle Bakery & Pâtisserie only offers its Brioche Donut ($3.95) on Fridays. So I pass on the danishes, tarts and cakes … wait … why am I passing up sugary goodies for a mere brioche doughnut? After one bite, it’s understood. It tastes just like its aroma: fresh-baked and delicious. Sweetness plays a supporting role on this soft, spongy, bread-like doughnut with a buttery richness; and only a modest sprinkling of sugar adorns the top. Even the spoonful of vanilla custard hidden in the center evokes understated indulgence, rather than extreme saccharine. I left grateful that I resisted the more toothsome treats, newly in love with the more age-appropriate Brioche Donut: A doughnut for adults. 2530 Arden Way, estellebakery.com.