Good apples

Agribusiness is about maximizing profit. Making that happen requires exchanging the funky interdependency of a small farm for vast fields that turn out a product that’s always the same. The end result is perfectly homogenous, individually shrink-wrapped potatoes at SuperTarget—and profit.

While making money is neither illegal nor immoral, agribusiness does make shopping for produce about as sensual as a flu shot. Uniformity is dull, no matter how you dress it up with cuddly corporate icons. It may make fiscal sense, but it takes all the joy and variety out of our foodshed.

Compare and contrast with local farmers, who are noted not only for a hands-on approach but for bringing a whole lot more to the party than a (entirely nonuniform, slightly dusty, never seen plastic) potato. Mike Madison of Yolo Press is a gifted essayist; Lloyd Johnson of Johnson Farms teaches painting; Annie Main of Good Hummus somehow farms, organizes land trusts and teaches legions of inner-city kids about farming; and Henry House of Coco Ranch advocates for the open-source operating system Linux.

Coco Ranch is, in fact, the exact opposite of uniform. Located between Davis and Winters, Coco Ranch is primarily an orchard, growing certified organic stone fruit and apples. Growing 20 varieties of peaches would be enough to take them out of the uni-tasker category, but side activities, like raising rare geese as an integrated part of the operation and hosting an ethnobotanical study group, show an impressive range of vision.

Coco Ranch is a family farm, operated by Henry and his parents Greg and Jennifer (a.k.a. Coco), with the recent addition of cousin George. Cherries are available in May, peaches June through September, apricots in July and September, and apples September through November. Some Coco Ranch produce is available in season at the Davis Food Co-op; other items are available only at pickup sites in Davis and Dixon.

Apples themselves are a grand example of uniformity vs. variety. If you shop large, conventional markets, you may think of apples as the “red, green or yellow” choices offered by agribusiness. If you shop farmers’ markets or co-ops, then the litany of Coco Ranch apples will seem homey and familiar: Gala in August (always a pleasant surprise); Sommerfeld (a local favorite, says Henry, but less popular outside our area) at the end of August or early September; Braeburn in mid-September; Granny Smith in late September (Coco Ranch lets these ripen more than most growers, so they’re sweet-tart); Fuji in the second half of October (Henry calls these “a little ugly” because they’re orangish—Winters weather isn’t quite cold enough to get the beautiful red of Washington Fujis); and, finally, Pink Lady apples being harvested this week.

If you find yourself with a surplus of apples (easily done if you buy one of everything you see!) try cranberry applesauce, one of my all-time favorite combinations. It’s especially lovely when made with Pink Lady apples.

Butter is traditionally added to applesauce to make it richer. You can leave it out if you like.

4 apples (about 2 pounds)
1 cup fresh cranberries
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 cup apple juice or water
a 3-inch strip of lemon zest
2 teaspoons cinnamon
2 tablespoons unsalted butter (optional)

Wash, core, peel (if desired) and cut the apples as for mashed potatoes. Wash and pick over cranberries. With a vegetable peeler, peel a large strip of zest from a washed, preferably organic lemon. In a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan, cook everything except cinnamon and butter over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the apples are very soft, 15-20 minutes. Fish out the zest. Mash with a fork or masher. Stir in the cinnamon and butter. Serve the applesauce warm or chilled.