Food Stuff

Apricot season is fleeting and can be uninspiring when much of the fresh fruit on the market is a woolly-textured disappointment. But there’s nothing quite so sunny-flavored as the golden, slightly bittersweet little globes. They’re easy to use, too: The baby-mouse-soft skin isn’t as fuzzy as a peach’s, so you can leave it on, and the small pits don’t cling to the flesh. I think apricots really come into their own when cooked, and they reach their Platonic ideal in jam, spread over thick slices of toasted walnut bread or added in dollops to challah French toast. Canning and preserving can be daunting, but a simple freezer jam is easy. Just cut up the apricots; cook them with sugar to taste and a little water until the whole mess is as thick as, well, jam. Spoon it into little jars and freeze it until you’re ready to use it. On the first truly dreary November day, you’ll be glad you saved a little sunshine for your breakfast.