Eat history at Saddle Rock

Saddle up: After more than a year of anticipation, Saddle Rock opened last week.

The project comes from Chris Jarosz (Broderick Roadhouse, Localis), with chef Matt Masera (previously of Mother, Empress Tavern) at the helm. Named after one of Sacramento’s first known restaurants, Saddle Rock (1801 L Street) aims to celebrate local history.

The space didn’t dramatically change from its Capital Dime days, but there’s warmer, brighter lighting and a much hipper vibe. The bar is completely new, with rustic wood paneling that is matched by other new wooden accents throughout the restaurant. There’s also a new, plush lounge area, expanding the amount of space dedicated to bar patrons. Saddle Rock is also utilizing the expansive back patio.

Now, what about the food?

In addition to the usual small plates, mains and desserts, there’s a raw bar and a daily selection of hot cakes ($9). It’s easy to see the historic influence in dishes such as pickled eggs with smashed peas and rye ($6); beef wellington with a poached egg and pickled onion ($26); and Hangtown fry ($18), the Gold Rush-era omelette. But there are some more eclectic surprises, too, like a wild rice cake with chicken salad, sorrel and celery ($9), or chop suey made with soba noodles ($16), which tie into California’s history in less obvious ways. Small plate prices range $6-$14, entrees $16-$27.

Cocktails seem particularly inventive, with many incorporating Asian ingredients. The Cabrillo ($9) mixes rum, fig, Sichuan peppercorn, orgeat and absinthe, while the Dirty Means ($9) uses bourbon, leather, chocolate, Thai chili and peanut oil, for example.

For now, Saddle Rock is only open for dinner, but look for lunch and brunch in the future.

Zen tea: Around the corner from Saddle Rock, there’s an adorable little tea spot that quietly opened in June. BenBen’s Hidden Tea Room (1120 19th Street) sources its teas from the likes of Japan and India, plus additional ingredients for its special blends—created with health in mind—from local farms. A 16-ounce cup costs $2-$8.

It’s hard not to melt in the peaceful space, dotted with Zen decorations and various seating nooks for reading, playing quiet games, doodling on Buddha Boards or raking miniature Japanese gardens. From the outside, the location looks more like an apartment than a business, but you should see an A-frame on the sidewalk—noting free tea tastings, no less.