Drinking about you

Red Rabbit’s Thom Collins ($9) is made with Old Tom gin that has, according to the menu, “been exposed exclusively to the music of Radiohead” and then muddled with lemon, sugar and soda water. Based on that I wasn’t sure I’d like it, to be honest, as I’m in the minority of those who prefer the band’s 1993 debut Pablo Honey over its later, artier fare. This take on the classic drink, however, exhibits a bracing and refreshing tart sweetness without any trace of tortured mopiness. It makes for a bit of a nostalgic vibe, sure, but one free of pretense or irony. 2718 J Street, http://theredrabbit.net.