Clusterf—fried rice

The new YOYO Cafe in South Sacramento bills itself as a Cantonese diner—offering porridge, Hong Kong-style toast and fish balls—but there are also Thai curries and, yes, Seafood & Kimchi Fried Rice ($11.95). Let’s be honest, the best part of fried rice is the essence of egg throughout, and this rendition doubles the quotient by topping it off with a gooey fried egg. Bits of octopus and shrimp give it oomph, and fermented sauerkraut lends personality to the otherwise simply savory comfort food. Next time, I’m curious to find out what the Fashion Salmon Fried Rice ($12.95) is all about. 8136 Gerber Road, (916) 689-5968.