Cauliflower tenderloin

Many people know about cauliflower rice—heck, Trader Joe’s sells bags of the grated cruciferous veg frozen—but what about cauliflower steak? It’s a thick slice of cauliflower that’s roasted or grilled, like at Revolution Wines (2831 S Street), where it’s topped with capers and walnuts and plated with a swirl of garlic purée and chive oil. The handsome Instagram-worthy dish is the only one on the menu that is vegan without tweaks, although it’s quite light for an entrée. Rev’s Garden Burger—not to be confused with Gardenburger Veggie Burgers—is heartier, with a beany housemade patty, a satisfyingly salty swipe of vegan aioli on ciabatta—a substitution for the nonvegan brioche bun—and fries. To maximize opportunities in deliciousness, request the pickled onions that come on the avocado tartine in the burger. For brunch, the avocado toast with tofu scramble is an option, but the wine isn’t: I was told it’s filtered with animal-derived ingredients.