Black is back

Kohlrabi

Illustration by JONATHAN BUCK

As part of the cabbage family, kohlrabi means “black turnip,” which sounds less appetizing than it is. While it’s usually associated with long-cooked winter stews and roasts, kohlrabi makes a radishy, crunchy raw snack. I once saw a group of 6-year-olds inhale peeled and sliced kohlrabi with nothing more than a dip in plain vinaigrette. Choose the pale green bulbs for milder flavor; the purple ones pack a bit of spice. Kohlrabi are winding down for the season, so add them to a crudité plate with colorful carrots, snap peas and fennel while you still can.