Barbecue euphoria

I just spent two weeks in Texas, where they love their barbecue. Don’t ask a Texan about his favorite barbecue unless you’re ready for an education. I’ve been well-educated.

So my Texan companion and I couldn’t wait to go to Fahrenheit 250 BBQ, which opened at the end of March in the former Bisla’s Sports Bar.

Owners Gino Sardo and Ray Lettini bought Bisla’s in 2013 and ran it for a few months before closing to revamp the space and menu. They were lucky they kept chef Jacob Carriker, who had the vision to transform the restaurant into a high-end barbecue joint.

At most Texas barbecues, customers order at a counter and perch on a wooden bench or chair while waiting for barbecue euphoria. Here, Fahrenheit 250 ups the ante with attentive table service, a bright remodel and high-end ingredients. Reclaimed wood and metal give the space a modern barn feel, but the restaurant is far from rustic.

Barbecue joints are all about the meat. In Texas, it’s brisket; North Carolina likes pulled pork; and other states stick to ribs. Carriker offers all three, plus the very California addition of smoked tri-tip. There’s also chicken and trout—all smoked in a 7-foot hand-forged steel behemoth imported from Texas.

The brisket is well-smoked, with that requisite pink ring under the dry rub. All the meats are dry rubbed and served without sauce, which can be added at the table from a choice of four: house, spicy, Kentucky mustard-based and Carolina vinegar-based. The house sauce is also a bit vinegary, but not gloppy or sweet, like most bottled versions.

The pulled-pork sandwich is served on a hefty bun topped with coleslaw, &#;agrave; la Carolina’s best. It doesn’t need much sauce, although I added that state’s version for authenticity. The meat is moist, smoky and falling apart with tenderness.

Ribs are often greasy or drowned in sauce, but these are flavorful and moist, without being fatty. The half-chicken, from Mary’s Free Range brand, is a bit dry, but benefits from a shot of sauce.

Tri-tip is often overcelebrated, and here it’s well-smoked, but not as good as the brisket. It is a very nice addition to the Market salad, with baby greens, grilled zucchini and onions, and cornbread croutons. The shallot-poppy seed vinaigrette adds a hint of sweetness.

All entrees come with a choice of sides, and there are many to sample. We loved the traditional collard greens that were still fresh-tasting and bright green. The mac ’n’ cheese is surprisingly spicy, and the grits are an unusual mix of large kernels and finely ground corn. They were cheesy and potentially addictive. Another winner is the garlic-tossed green beans.

Slightly sweet cornbread muffins come with honey butter. They suffer the issue of many a corn muffin—they’re a bit dry—but a slather of that honey butter certainly helps.

Some of the most unusual features are the vegan and vegetarian options. Smoked tofu soft tacos come with an avocado crema, thinly sliced portobello and fresh corn. They were very good, but at $13 for three, a bit overpriced. An additional side or two would give them better value.

The drinks menu is extensive, with many microwbrews on tap, craft cocktails like the signature Kentucky Buck, house-made lemonade and an unexpected selection of Scotch.

For those who manage to save room for dessert, The Grunter is a mixing bowl of banana pudding, heavily layered with whipped cream, but sadly light on the Nilla Wafers. Four of us could barely eat half. The Oinker and The Squeaker feature chocolate mousse over huge brownies, with lots of toppings. The carrot cake is slightly less alarming, chock-full of raisins and nuts and layered with a cream-cheese frosting.

Fahrenheit 250 isn’t a traditional janky-but-lovable barbecue joint. Instead, it’s a California version with very good food and the kind of details that make it a great choice for drinks with friends, dinner with the kids, and even large crowds.