Aloha, Tiki

As the second tiki bar to open in Midtown recently, The Jungle Bird succeeds where the now-shuttered Rum Rok didn’t. Fun and retro, the restaurant and bar also serves delicious food.

Owners Melissa and Tyler Williams first tested the theme at Tank House BBQ & Bar with Tiki Tuesdays, and became tropically obsessed. With co-owner Buddy Newby, a former Tank House bartender, they transformed the formerly spare Kru space into a rum runner’s paradise.

Like the time-warp effect of entering a classic Hawaiian tiki, layers upon layers of quirky artifacts lend personality to the Jungle Bird. Parrots swing overhead, and huge Japanese glass fishing floats adorn the bamboo bar.

Likewise, the photo-perfect cocktails demand attention. The bar curates more than 100 kinds of rum to recreate some of the most famous tiki drinks. Try the 1944 Mai Tai ($9), an homage to the original Trader Vic’s recipe for rum, Curaçao and orange juice, with a hint of almond-flavored orgeat syrup.

Or say aloha to a JB Planter’s Punch ($8) of Angostura rum, lemon, berry cordial and tiki bitters. It comes appropriately kitschy in a special glass with a flower and umbrella. Despite appearances, these are quality cocktails, not fruit bombs.

It would be easy to keep sipping, just for the fun of the drinkware: Brass pineapples! Coconut cups! A huge glass flamingo!

This isn’t just a bar, though. Chef Matt Brown turns out impressive Polynesian-inspired food from the small kitchen. The best deal is a pu pu platter ($20 for two people; $35 for four), a sampler of hors d’oeuvres familiar to tiki lovers everywhere.

Ours held Kalua pork sliders, coconut shrimp, veggie egg rolls, crab Rangoon and inihaw na manok (Filipino chicken skewers). The Kalua pork ($7 &#;agrave; la carte) pairs juicy barbecued pork with sweet pineapple preserves for a salty-sweet hit of flavor.

The coconut shrimp ($6 &#;agrave; la carte) were some of the best we’ve had, surpassing the sweeter version at Coconut’s Fish Café nearby. Lightly coated with toasted coconut, the shrimp tasted subtly salty and got better with a dunk in the sweet chili sauce.

We liked, but didn’t love, the egg rolls and crab Rangoon, both of which came off bland. Instead, try the pork sisig tacos ($6), with mini crispy tortillas holding juicy pork, kimchi and aromatic cilantro. The slight zing of spice pairs well with the fruit-forward drinks.

Of the entrees we tried, the coconut fried rice ($10) was clearly the best. It comes studded with Chinese sausage and topped with sesame seeds. Mix in the astringent green papaya shreds and caramelized pineapple preserves for a new take on fried rice.

Less successful, the curried chicken salad ($10) paired underseasoned chicken with large chunks of bitter frisée that didn’t really mesh together.

The wonton Napa cabbage salad ($8) also seemed clunky. Large pieces of cabbage and crunchy wonton made it hard to eat, and the dressing lacked the personality to keep pace with its surroundings.

The tom yum soup ($8) stood out for its complex mushroom broth and tender shrimp. It seemed odd that the soup had no spice to speak of; some chili heat would be a welcome addition.

The fried rice aside, I’d make a meal of the pu pus, which boast strong flavors to match the outstanding tropical drinks. A round of pork bao char sui ($7) gives you another excuse to eat the expertly cooked pork. Here, it comes wrapped in a denser dough than usual for bao, but that quirk made them no less fantastic.

Maybe it’s not surprising that the pork dishes are some of the best. With the cooking experience of the Tank House to draw on, the Jungle Bird benefits from its sister restaurant’s meat-centric skills.

The menu will change soon, according to the staff, so stop by and sample a pu pu or two with a daiquiri ($7) made with fresh bananas. Step into a way-back machine with an island vibe.