A new jam

Years ago, there was a bike racer known as Kumquat del Fuego. It always seemed like a good name for a jam, too. Now’s the time to try, since kumquat trees are laden with their olive-sized fruits. Thinly slice ripe kumquats and mix in some rings of red chile as they cook. The mini citrus are especially easy to eat because you don’t even need to peel them. The skin is the sweetest part. Set them out alone for snacks or chop and mix them with oil, garlic and fresh herbs for a quick relish.