The kings and I

“Yes, I’m going to eat the skin,” Colette said, scowling. “Oh, but look at them,” I said, indicating Miss Marilyn and Mr. Theo staring up at the table, wide-eyed, noses twitching. “Look at those faces …”

“Then give them yours.”

“But it’s so good.” I peeled a small piece of skin off my king salmon fillet and set it aside. “Maybe I’ll mix a little bit in with their food later.”

(Note: Never feed raw salmon to a dog. It could be highly toxic, even fatal.)

I took another bite of salmon and sipped my Pinot Grigio. Heaven!

One of the most exciting things about Henri’s move to Northern California in 2003 was discovering the local king salmon. That first summer I must have eaten salmon twice a week. In recent years, though, very little has been available—the 2008 and 2009 California commercial seasons were canceled, and the 2010 season was just 11 days long. The 2011 season was better, but far from as productive as seasons past.

But the 2012 California season, which opened May 1, is already looking to be one of the best in at least the last seven years, thanks in part to improved fisheries management and water conditions. Party boats out of Bay Area harbors are reporting limits (two fish per person) on almost every outing, and biologists, commercial fishermen and fishmongers expect a long, good season.

Unfortunately, prices are still quite high. Last week at S & S Organic Produce and Natural Foods, king salmon steaks were $17.99/lb. and fillets were $19.99/lb. I was told that prices might not come down much, if at all, over the course of the season, which runs through September.

Of course, you can buy less expensive salmon, Alaskan sockeye, farmed Atlantic salmon, etc., but the king—aka chinook—is far superior. Its natural oils keep the meat moist and flavorful, and its high levels of omega-3 fatty acids, like red wine, merci beaucoup, can protect against heart disease.

King salmon is delicious any way you cook it—poached, baked, broiled—but it’s best grilled. The key is not to overcook it. It should be flaky but not dry. I like the center still dark pink (raw). On the grill, I turn it by slipping my spatula between the skin and the meat and then cooking it on top of the separated skin for a few more minutes. (Miss Marilyn and Mr. Theo always watch closely.)

Here are just a couple of ideas for preparing salmon, starting with my favorite simple grilling baste. The second is from the San Francisco Chronicle and was adapted from Toshiro Nagano, the executive chef at Skool in San Francisco.

Henri’s simple garlic-butter baste

3 tablespoons butter

4-6 cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 teaspoon lemon juice

sea salt and fresh-ground pepper to taste

lemon slices and parsley sprigs for garnish

Melt butter in small saucepan, and add the garlic, soy sauce, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Keep at low heat for several minutes, until garlic is cooked. Let cool. Baste over salmon steaks or filets and let stand 10 to 15 minutes. Baste again just before grilling, then again before and after turning. Garnish with lemon slices and parsley.

Spiced millet-coated salmon

5 tablespoons millet

1 tablespoon whole coriander seeds

1 teaspoon celery seed

1/2 teaspoon poppy seed

1/2 teaspoon yellow or brown mustard seeds

1/2 teaspoon whole white peppercorns

1/2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

1 teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt

1 teaspoon sugar

1 to 2 tablespoons olive oil

4 5- to 6-ounce skin-on salmon fillets, pin bones removed

Preheat oven to 350. In a shallow dish, combine millet, seeds, peppercorns, salt and sugar. Coat the salmon with mixture, pressing gently.

Heat the oil in an ovenproof saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the fillets, skin side down. Allow to sear and become crisp, about 2-3 minutes. Place pan in the oven, skin side down. Cook 5-7 minutes. Serve skin side up—Nagano recommends bok choy on the side.