Stir up the season

It’s no secret that Henri is unabashedly enamored of Chico’s farmers’ markets. Colette and I love nothing better than to stroll among the vendors, planning meals according to what’s available.

Lately, we’ve taken to stocking up on vegetables for grilling. We love to grill red onions, broccoli, bell peppers, cauliflower and whatever else we can find in a grilling wok ($22 at Collier “Kitchen Supply”—105 Broadway) and then top them with a light summer dressing. Sometimes I’ll throw some shrimp or chicken (cut into bite-sized pieces) in with the veggies. Even better: all mixed together into a grain or pasta salad (couscous, orzo, quinoa, rice, or any small or medium-size pasta, such as rotelle or fusilli). In any case, toss with generous amounts of dressing, and serve with a pinot noir or crisp sauvignon blanc.

The two dressings below are delicious over grilled veggies, either by themselves or mixed in with various grilled meats and pastas and grains, as well as tofu. Experiment by trying different combinations. The third, a peanut dressing, is thicker and works better as a dip, especially for kebabs.

Cooking notes: 1) Vegetables should be chopped and then cooked al dente. Overcooked, their individual flavors become less distinctive. If you’re including chicken, begin grilling it about 10 minutes before you add the vegetables; add shrimp toward the end. Stir frequently. 2) For a wonderfully colorful presentation, add a quarter head of red cabbage (shredded). 3) Even with a nonstick grilling pan, I use a spray-on cooking oil and drizzle a bit of olive oil on the vegetables several times while they’re grilling—being careful not to pour on so much that it drips onto the burners and flames up. 4) The pasta and grain salads are especially good served chilled.

Basil dressing

This is a lighter, more liquid version of the classic pesto typically served with pasta and has a tangy, refreshing taste—try it mixed into couscous with red and green bell peppers, red onions and chicken. It’s also very good dribbled over gnocchi.

Ingredients: 2-3 cloves garlic, minced 1-2 cups fresh basil leaves 1/4 cup white wine vinegar 1/2 cup olive oil 2 tbsp. grated Parmesan cheese 1/8 teaspoon ground pepper

Process the garlic in a food processor, add the other ingredients, and process to desired consistency. Add more oil to make it more liquid, more cheese to thicken it up. Transfer to small serving pitcher and refrigerate. (You can also prepare this dressing by chopping the basil very small with a paring knife, mincing or pressing the garlic, and stirring it up with the other ingredients, though processing the basil makes the dressing more pungent.)

Henri’s Saffron Aioli

The lemon and saffron give this dressing a distinct bite and make it ideal for summer veggies, really bringing out the flavor in bell peppers and shrimp.

Ingredients: 2 tbsp. lemon juice 1 pinch saffron 2-3 cloves garlic 1/2 cup mayonnaise 2 tbsp. olive oil 2 tbsp. rice vinegar

Pour lemon juice into mixing bowl, and add saffron (thumb-and-finger crumbled). Allow to steep for several minutes. Add garlic, mayonnaise, olive oil and vinegar and whisk to desired consistency. (Note: Ingredient amounts are approximations; add and subtract to desired taste and consistency.)

Peanut pesto

This is a new favorite, which Colette found in Julie Rosso and Sheila Lukins’ The New Basics Cookbook (Workman Publishing). Try it as a dip for bell peppers, red onions and pieces of grilled chicken or flank-steak skewers.

Ingredients: 1 cup unsalted peanuts 1/2 cup soy sauce 1/4 cup honey 1/3 cup water 3 cloves garlic, minced 1/2 cup sesame oil 1/2 tsp. ground pepper

Process peanuts in food processor until finely ground. With blade turning, add remaining ingredients through feed tube and process to a thick paste. Transfer to small bowl, cover and refrigerate for at least a couple of hours before serving.