Japanese tapas

Because I love sushi so much it’s difficult for me to walk into a sushi restaurant and order anything else. So, I had to mentally prepare myself upon my first trip to Chico’s newest sushi joint, Izakaya Ichiban. Turns out, this place offers a little bit of everything.

In psyching myself up, I did a little research. First off, I learned that an “izakaya” is a Japanese drinking establishment that also serves food—kind of like a tapas bar. Secondly, “ichiban” means “No. 1.” Then I found out that this No. 1 Japanese tapas bar was opened by the folks who run Big Tuna Sushi Bistro, a place I’ve been to many times. I was beginning to like the sound of this.

The one strike Izakaya Ichiban had against it going in was its location. Tucked into an easy-to-miss tiny strip-mall off Notre Dame Boulevard, it’s sort of across the street from Tong Fong Low. That, coupled with the newness of the restaurant—it’s been open a little less than two months—resulted in a near-empty dining room on my first visit, with my husband, Josh, on a recent weekend night. We immediately gravitated to a tall, bar-type table in the back and our server smiled and remarked at how popular that table was—almost everyone wants to sit there, he said.

We took a look at our menus and asked for suggestions. We were ready to try something different. Our server explained that the sushi part of the menu is almost identical to that of Big Tuna—it’s the appetizers and other entrees that set Izakaya apart. He recommended the “hama kama” —hamachi cheeks—and the artichoke tempura. We ordered the latter ($3.95), along with panko-breaded oysters ($7.95) and miso soup ($2.50). For our entrees, we chose sushi (couldn’t opt out altogether!). Josh ordered the Energy Roll (garlic, shrimp tempura, krab tempura, avocado tempura and soy paper, $11); I chose the sashimi plate, which comes with a soup (miso) or salad, three pieces of tuna, two of hamachi (yellowtail) and two of salmon for $14.

We got our appetizers first and, though Josh didn’t care for the oysters—he said they were too sweet—I found them delicious. They were fresh, not too chewy, and the breading was yummy. The artichoke was, well, interesting. Basically they take a quarter of an artichoke, from heart to the tip of the leaves, and tempura it. On the plate, it was a piece of art. But it was difficult to eat. Not bad, just not my fave.

When the sushi came, it was predictably perfect, fresh as could be. Aside from a small mistake in my order—I received the sashimi sampler instead of the sashimi plate, which was actually more sashimi for me!—the service was wonderful; prompt, attentive and friendly.

I went back about a week later for a take-out lunch. This time, I ordered the hama kama that had been recommended ($7.50), along with the Japanese Fried Chicken ($5.95) and gyoza ($6.50). I admit it smelled so good in the car on my way back to work that I dug into the chicken. Yummy, but the bite-sized pieces of chicken were a little on the bland side. The gyoza—basically Japanese potstickers—were delicious and the sauce served with them packed a small punch.

I was really aching to try the hama kama, though, and let me tell you, it was worth the wait. I’m not sure if I’ve ever had anything quite like it—the cheeks are served intact, bone-in, grilled, and wow are they tender. It’s one of those exotic-sounding dishes that are totally and completely not weird once you sit down to eat them (so your non-adventurous friends won’t be grossed out). Seriously, go to Izakaya Ichiban right now just for the hama kama. You’ll thank me.