Into the fire

Opening a pizza joint in a town like Chico, where most locals can list their top three established favorites at the drop of a hat, is a mighty big gamble. But then again, Grana is a far cry from your typical pizza joint.

This is first evident upon stepping through the doors into the restaurant’s cavernous, modernly appointed main dining area. Copper-colored, oxidized metal sheets riveted together cover the entire far wall with a viewing space from the second-floor dining area cut into it. The floor is dark concrete and the whole place is lit with chandeliers that look something like electrified jellyfish. It’s not uninviting, just distinctly more urban than some might expect stepping off of Second Street.

This is offset by the beautifully renovated, tiled wood oven taking up an entire corner behind the bar. To further soften the post-modern atmosphere, a slightly altered version of the red-and-white logo of a previous similarly named tenant—the old Grand Auto store—is emblazoned on one wall.

On my first visit, my dining companion and I decided to split a salad, appetizer and a pizza, settling on The Wedge ($8), House Made Meatballs ($8) and Pesto with Harvest Veggies Pizza ($14).

The salad was delicious, fresh butter lettuce topped with ample amounts of blue cheese (dressing and crumbles) and hand-cut bacon. It was a bit on the small side for sharing, but would’ve been perfect for one, and luckily the meatballs were soon to follow. Wonderfully seasoned with a touch of spiciness and smothered in delicious tomato sauce and Pecorino Romano cheese, it was tough to save a meatball to garnish our otherwise meatless pizza.

With each bite of the pizza, Grana’s d"cor and atmosphere made much more sense. Basil pesto and Farmstead Creamery fromage blanc blended magnificently with delectably cooked shallots, tomatoes and sweet red onions, all atop crispy thin crust. The altogether effect is a complex, succulent mix of flavors, refreshingly new and traditional at once. It is a bit urban and a bit Chico in their use of local, organic and fresh vegetables. Adding bits of meatball—concentrated bundles of flavor unto themselves—really sent the taste buds into overdrive.

There are only nine pizzas on the regular menu, but no shortage of toppings and promising pies. I look forward to trying the White (mozzarella, Pecorino Romano, guanciale, spring onion and egg, $16) and Meat and Potato (tomato, chorizo, arugula, breadcrumbs, sherry vinegar, teardrop tomatoes and more, $13) in particular. Interesting toppings like egg and duck bacon can be added to any pizza ($3 and $4, respectively).

I returned the very next day to check out the lunch, facing off against an open-faced sausage sandwich ($8). The visit reaffirmed my opinion that Grana is making delicious food, and revealed a seemingly much more informal vibe than in the evening.

Outdoor seating is also available and a nice contrast to the metropolitan interior. An added bonus to eating outside (as if we need one here) is that buckets of beer are available for enjoying on a beautiful day. Grana also has an excellent selection of beer and an ever-changing wine list.

Grana is an excellent addition to downtown, more of a complement to its neighbors than direct competition, and should fare well. It’s different enough to be a refreshing change of pace, but familiar enough to remain comfortable. The prices are mid-range—we paid $30, not including tax, for a meal for two—and well worth it in service, portion size and flavor. Great for a quick lunch, casual dinner or a date.