French of July?
A confused Henri celebrates the other Red, White and Blue
Henri’s heart swells with pride when he reflects back on the founding of the country, the tremendous sacrifices of the great men and women who, two and a quarter centuries ago, courageously and selflessly stood up against tyranny and fought for freedom for future generations.
So I was beside myself. Honored, humbled.
Mr. Jason had called to suggest that I write the Independence Day Chow column. Oh, that he would have that trust and faith in me to write about such an important holiday, one that resonates like a bell pealing with patriotism and love of country.
Allons enfants de la Patrie…
Le quatorze Juillet!
Of course mon perennially displaced père, Etienne Bourride, always celebrated Independence Day in style, with unfettered fetes and feasts, the highlights of which were always his end-of-evening pyrotechnical displays, sky rockets and aerial shells launched from our backyard and lighting up the night.
Naturally, such pomp and circumstance tended to flummox our otherwise unimpassioned Midwest neighbors, though, as he pointed out, it was often hard to tell.
And his sole culinary Independence Day mandate? Except for the main course at dinner—usually pot-au-feu, coq au vin, or bouillabaisse—as many as possible of the day’s foods and drinks had to be one of the colors of the flag. Liberté, égalité, fraternité, he’d proclaim, raising a glass of breakfast Bordeaux and then digging into his blueberry crêpes.
So of course: lots of tomatoes and red bell peppers, red berries for the red; crêpes and quiches, French bread and aioli for the white; and blueberries always did the trick for the blue, with bleu cheese sometimes multi-tasking.
Among his favorite patriotic dishes honoring the red, white and blue: a raspberry-blueberry-and-brie appetizer plate, arranged to look like the flag; potato salad, using red, white and blue potatoes; parfaits layered with blueberries, strawberries and whipped cream; clafoutis made with blueberries and cherries; and of course his cake with white icing with blueberries and strawberries at its flanks. All of which are perfect for a Chico Independence Day potluck.
Here’s another delightful Independence Day dish, ideal for breakfast or even a dinner side. You can make the crêpes ahead of time and warm them in a microwave before serving.
Henri’s Independence Day crêpes
Ingredients:
1 1/3 cups milk
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
2 large eggs
1 tbsp. lemon zest
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 cube butter
1 1/2 cups blueberries
2 tbsp. agave extract
1/4 cup orange juice
2 cups plain Greek yogurt
1 1/2 cups strawberries
Powdered sugar
For the crêpes: In large bowl, whisk milk, flour, eggs, lemon zest and vanilla extract until smooth. Brush melted butter into bottom and onto sides of an 8- or 10-inch nonstick skillet and bring to medium heat. Pour 1/4 cup batter into the center of the pan, twirling it so the batter spreads evenly. Cook for 30 seconds until crêpes pull away from the sides of the pan. Gently flip the crêpe over with a thin spatula and cook for an additional five seconds. Remove from heat and transfer to a plate. Repeat cooking the crêpes—each time rebuttering pan—until all the batter has been used. Set the cooked crêpes aside.
For the blueberry mixture: Clean and dry the skillet. Brush in more butter, and cook the blueberries, agave extract and orange juice on medium-high heat for about three minutes, stirring occasionally.
Assembly: Scoop 1/3 cup of yogurt from its container and place it in the center of the crêpe from side to side. Spoon a generous tablespoon of blueberry sauce over the yogurt. Sprinkle each crêpe (either served flat or folded over into a wrap) with powdered sugar, and finish by topping with three or four large strawberries.