Cheese freak

My love of cheese began very “American.” Kraft sliced American cheese. String cheese. Velveeta. Swiss. Cheddar.

France changed everything.

The town we lived in had the most amazing farmers’ market, where there were at least a dozen cheese vendors. This is where I learned about artisan cheeses, and where I discovered a love of soft as well as firm, aged varieties.

Back in Chico, the availability of truly delicious, artisan cheeses is pretty sad. The folks at The Galley cheese counter know me well, but I was sorry to see Creekside Cellars close. There are a handful of local cheese-makers, though, who can be found mostly at farmers’ markets. That’s where I first stumbled upon Pedrozo Dairy & Cheese Co.

During a recent visit to the Pedrozo farm in Orland, owner Tim Pedrozo took me on a tour, introducing me to the 30 dairy cows, most of them milling about in the large field. A few came up to say hello, and one even surprised me with a kiss. (I didn’t know cows gave kisses like dogs!) What a sweetie.

Inside the cheese room, we spied the fruits of the previous day’s labor. The process is fairly simple, Pedrozo said. First, they milk the cows in the milking barn. The milk then is transferred into the cheese-making room, where it’s placed in a large drum and the temperature is equalized. “We make a traditional, farm-style semi-firm raw milk cheese,” he explained. To keep it raw, they never heat the milk above “cow temperature,” the natural heat it would reach inside the cow.

They introduce a starter, which begins the process of turning the milk into cheese, and then a rennet, which helps make it firm. In all, it takes about four hours. Every part of the process affects the taste of the cheese, Pedrozo said, starting with what the cow eats and going all the way to how long they age it. (Pedrozo cheeses are aged at least 60 days, Visit www.choosingwisely.org and click on “Lists” to find discussion points for patients and physicians. some of them much longer.)

About a year and a half ago, when grain prices skyrocketed, Pedrozo said he decided to go back to a grass-fed model. A third-generation dairy farmer, he remembers when grass-fed was the only way. Then farmers started serving their cattle grains in the interest of helping them grow bigger, faster. Going back to grass has been time consuming, but is worth it, he said—he can taste it in the flavor, texture and overall quality of his cheeses.

That’s especially true for the deeply rich Black Butte Reserve, my personal favorite, which is made using only spring milk—“Spring milk has so many flavor layers; the grasses are different, and they’re growing faster.” Other varieties include the mellower Northern Gold, the slightly sweet Red Pepper and the earthy Tartufello.

You’ll find Pedrozo cheeses locally at the Saturday market in Chico, at the Glenn County markets in Orland (Thursdays) and Willows (Saturdays), at the Rusty Wagon (420 Walker St., Orland) and soon at Holiday Quality Foods in Paradise. Also, go online (www.realfarmsteadcheese.com) to learn more and to place a special order.