Vinegary bubbly

Jade nectarine shrub soda, The Mill

Illustration by serene lusano

Hip cafes no longer serve Italian sodas for good reason: they're sugary sweet and ultimately one-dimensional. An excellent alternative? Shrub sodas, which sub out the Torani for a fruit- and vinegar-based syrup. The Mill recently started serving shrub sodas in two seasonal flavors, apricot and jade nectarine. Each soda is made to order, with house-made syrup, sparkling mineral water on draft and a single fancy ice cube. The jade nectarine in particular delicately balances the sweet, herbal and tangy for a delightfully refreshing beverage in the afternoon sun. A 12-ounce jar costs $4 plus a $1.50 deposit, which you'll get back when you return the glass. 1827 I Street, www.themillsacramento.com.