Gentrified yum

La Venadita, the new Oak Park eatery, has raised some hackles for its “gentrified” take on taqueria mainstays. Certainly, its quesadilla ($7.50) is different. Here, the dish comprises two small tortillas, each folded into a half-moon that’s stuffed with cremini mushrooms, asparagus and goat cheese, then covered in poblano cream and epazote, the pungent Mexican herb. Lightly fried, the edges are crisp, the asparagus still holds a nice bite and the whole thing is at once tantalizingly smoky, spicy and creamy rich. A gentrified quesadilla? OK, sure. At least it’s delicious. 3501 Third Avenue, www.lavenaditasac.com.